As a pure embodiment of Cygnarian military might, the Stormwall Colossal excels above all at living up to it’s beauty on the table.
I’ve said before that there were a few key models that sold me on starting a Cygnar force, but the Stormwall was the single biggest draw to the army. I knew it would be a while before I was ready to field one, let alone paint one. It turned out to be almost 2 years after starting my Cygnar army, that I finally bit the bullet and picked one up.
I was influenced heavily by the studio version. I love the color scheme and just the right amount of weathering. I love how the rusted and chipped white paint looks on Cygnar jacks. It really captures the theme of the army. While being the richest and most technologically advanced nation; they are still at war. I wanted the piece to show that.
I call it a piece because that’s truly what it is. A centerpiece. I’m excited every time I have to deploy it first. I relish the extra time I get to enjoy it on the table. It makes me especially proud when it lives up to it’s beauty the second it opens those big guns on an unsuspecting enemy. The Stormwall has been such a boon to the Cygnarian meta. You see it in almost every tournament pairing and rightfully so. Its basically 3 heavy jacks for the price of 2. There’s no denying it; it’s pretty much an “auto-include” in any 50pt force.
The paint job was pretty straightforward. I primed it black and started with the metals. There really wasn’t much. It was nice to work with a large scale model for a change. Very forgiving. I did my standard metal treatment which is GW’s Lead Belcher, followed by a wash of black ink, blanket highlight with Lead Belcher again and hit the fine edge highlights with Silver. Looks nice and greasy.
“It was nice to work with a large scale model for a change. Very forgiving.”
Next and based and faded all of my blue armor. I like my fades to be slightly exaggerated and as smooth as possible. I like to go from a deep ocean blue to a sky blue. I usually work with a wet palette to get the effect quickly and I do it the same way, working each armor section at a time. I base with GW Macragge Blue and wash with blue ink. While the ink is still wet, I quickly work back in the Macragge Blue for 3/4 of the section. Then I start fading up thin coats of Macragge and Lothern Blue. I’ll probably do try to do a fade layer for 3 parts. Meaning I’ll work the parts for each coat: 3:1, then 2:2, then 1:3. Then I hit the sharp highlights with a thinned down Lothern Blue. I do the sharp highlight sparingly…thats just my particular preference. The studio look definitely hits ever sharp edge, but this looks weird to me.
After that I did my whites. This was another critical fade. White is always tricky and I wanted it to look dingy in the crevices and stuff. So I faded fast from a custom clay color to white with a little bit of khaki in the transition. Its tough to see in the pictures, but this layering is really what gives white areas of the model some life.
Next was the Golds. I like my Cygnar gold to look dingy and worn. I base with GW Auric Armor Gold, the I wash it heavily with brown; often 2 coats. Then I drybrush the gold again and hit the highlights with a 2:1 mix of Gold and Silver. Shiny!!
Finally, I close out the model with some heavy duty weathering. Once again, the large model is pretty forgiving so I just went to to town with the Smoke and Rust powders. For the chipped areas, I just hit the edges with GW Rhinox Hide in little spots. I like it for rust because it’s not quite black with a little red in it. I attempted to emulate the heavily tinted version of white chipped paint you often see on cars and trucks, but opted to use the technique sparingly because it was so distracting. I try to only do one or two of these rust patches per model.
“I attempted to emulate the heavily tinted version of white chipped paint you often see on cars and trucks, but opted to use the technique sparingly because it was so distracting.”
I finished model with classic deep orange to yellow fade on the Cygnus. I love that its front and center and a grand symbol for all to see. The piece sits atop a gorgeous 150mm base from Dragonforge. I really love this one. It has all the elements from the Crux Mechanika line and adds that extra pop of color.
The model was a blast to paint and I have to say, I was kind of nervous to do it. I really didn’t want blow $130 bucks and play it all messed up. I know I should trust my gut and dive in, but you can’t help but be intimidated to paint a model that you know is going to be on the table, kicking ass a lot. I’m glad it came out so well.